Red Wine

It's such a pleasure to taste the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino from Poggio di Sotto; this is easily one of the wines of the vintage. Its bouquet is pure class, balsamic, exotic and spicy. A blend of dried orange and cloves gives way to sweet lavender and black cherries. Elegant and silky, yet with cooling acidity and depths of tart red berry fruits, the 2016 impresses further with a salty savoriness and a sense of sheer energy. It leaves a coating of dusty tannins and dark florals to resonate, displaying a youthful concentration slowly easing as traces of licorice fade through the incredibly long finish.

The 2016 Baffonero (100% Merlot) is a polished, elegant wine that also avoids some of the excesses of previous years. In 2016, Baffonero is perfumed and light on its feet. All it needs is a bit more persistence through to the finish. Perhaps that will develop with time in bottle. Today, the 2016 impresses for its balance and sense of poise. This is a very pretty Baffonero.

The 2018 Tignanello is every bit as impressive as it was when I last tasted it earlier in the year. Blood orange, spice, black cherry and mocha lend an alluring exotic character to a Tignanello that sizzles with tension and energy. Silky, creamy contours play off classically mid-weight structure. Beguiling and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2018 is a total knock-out.

The 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva La Fabriseria trades power for elegance and feminine beauty. Notes of mineral-laced ripe cherries, currants, sage and cocoa gain in volume and depth with time in the glass. It’s seamless and silky, coasting across a core of vibrant acids, with juicy red and black fruits giving way to sweet spice and pretty inner florals. A bitter hint of coffee and savory herbal notes join with tart blackberry and resonate for well over a minute. This is simply gorgeous. Tedeschi really nailed it in 2015 with both the Riserva La Fabriseria and the Capitel Monte Olmi.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark stallion of a wine that showcases both the depth and radiance of the vintage. At first, its bouquet is dark and earthy, yet quickly blossoms into an enthralling mix of musky red currants, wild peppery herbs, dusty rose and worn leather. While satiny in feel, it’s also sleek and lively, with a vibrant burst of sweet and sour citrus that enlivens its notes of tart cranberry and pomegranate, all wound tightly in a web of saline-minerals. Violet and lavender tones arch across the palate over a core of silky tannins that nicely frame the experience, as a hint of balsamic spice slowly tapers off. The 2016 is one of the most deep and balanced Brunellos that I’ve ever experienced from Biondi Santi. If this is the Annata, then I can only imagine what the Riserva might bring to the table. Something of note is that in 2016, production was down by 15% following the abundant 2015 vintage and the dry conditions in the early part of the season.

The 2016 Tignanello is flat out stunning. Dark, dense and resonant, the 2016 is a wonderfully complete wine that will provide readers with decades of pure drinking pleasure. The 2016 is especially dark and brooding, and yet the tannins are incredibly polished to the point of being perceptible. In the glass, the 2016 is complete and regal, perhaps because of the super-classic blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. The pedigree of the vintage comes through in the wine's extraordinary balance and total sense of finesse. I don't think there is another wine anywhere in the world made entirely from estate fruit that can match Tignanello for quality, consistency and value within its peer group of top-flight reds.

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata is done in a much more nervy, taut style than Scavino fans have come to expect over the years. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but there is no question the 2016 represents a pretty significant stylistic shift from the past for this bottling. Whether that is unique to the 2016 or an approach that will carry through in coming vintages remains to be seen. Objectively the 2016 feels a bit clenched and lacking the inner sweetness the Riserva has shown in the past. Crushed flowers, mint, rose petal, sweet red cherry and orange zest lend nuance to this taut, classically austere young Barolo from Scavino.

The 2016 Barolo Unoperuno explodes from the glass with striking aromatic intensity, inner perfume and brilliant fruit. The 2016 is a blend of co-fermented fruit from Arborina, Cerretta, Cannubi and Liste, bringing together elements of traditional and modern schools in a gorgeous Barolo that hits all the right notes. In a word: stunning!

The 2018 Le Pergole Torte is dense, creamy and nuanced from the very first taste. Red/purplish berry fruit, spice, rose petal and a touch of new French oak all build as the Pergole Torte opens with aeration. As always, Pergole shows that extra touch of richness from the selection of fruit used here, with that added texture from French oak. As appealing as the 2018 is today, it is of course a very young wine that will need years to be at its very finest.

The 2017 Barolo is gracious, perfumed and very nicely lifted. An effusive, floral bouquet opens first, followed by a rush of red berry fruit. Nervous, a bit wiry at this stage, the 2017 is going to need at least a few years to fully open, but all the elements are in place to allow that to happen. Maria Teresa Mascarello's Barolo is one of the most elegant and restrained wines of the year. It's not an immediately impressive or captivating wine at this stage. The purity of the flavors is just striking, though. Give it a few years to blossom.

The 2019 Guado al Tasso is a model of total refinement. Deeply pitched spice, mocha and leather nuances meld into a core of plush dark fruit as the 2019 reveals its considerable charms. The aromatics alone are mesmerizing, but the 2019 has so much more to offer. I admire the wine’s balance and allure, both of which it has in spades. Like so many 2019s, Guado al Tasso is a wine more of energy and persistence than volume. Clean, bracing mineral notes linger on the sublime finish. The 2019 spent 18 months in barrel, 90% new. (Originally Published in March 2022)

The 2018 Barolo is a wine of extreme elegance and nuance. Dried red cherry, tobacco, dried flowers, mint and sweet spice are all nicely lifted in this sublime, delicate Barolo. All the elements fall into place so effortlessly. The 2018 naturally does not have the body of more important years, but it offers tons of persistence and fine balance. It has closed down quite a bit since I first tasted it a few months ago, which is probably a good sign. An opened bottle just got better and better over time.

Inky violet color. Highly perfumed, mineral-tinged aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, smoky bacon, olive paste and incense, along with suggestions of woodsmoke and exotic spices. Offers palate-staining, appealingly sweet and deeply concentrated blueberry, cassis, floral pastille, smoked meat, licorice and fruitcake flavors that show excellent concentration and are supported by a core of juicy acidity. Finishes sweet, broad and extremely long, with resonating florality and chewy tannins that build steadily.

The 2017 Sassicaia shows the natural richness and intensity of the year while retaining its mid-weight sense of balance and overall poise. A burst of super-ripe red cherry/plum fruit makes a strong opening statement. Mocha, cinnamon, leather and dried herbs appear later, adding aromatic lift. The 2017 is a fairly immediate Sassicaia. Even so, it has enough energy to drink well for a number of years. Production is down 35%, a combination of naturally low yields, dehydration on the vine and then selection in the cellar. Most of the fruit comes from the estate’ hillside vineyards, older parcels that resisted the conditions better.

The 2018 Sassicaia is fabulous. Bright and beautifully poised, the 2018 opens with brilliant aromatics that make a strong first impression. Delicate and light on its feet, the 2018 is a regal wine that is going to need a number of years to come into its own. Sassicaia is the most finessed of Bolgheri’s top wines. That is very much the case in 2018 as well. I loved it. A cold winter led to a late spring and delayed start to the year. May and June saw some heat, but only moderate temperatures. Only July was truly warm, with minimal diurnal shifts. Cool winds arrived again in August, and temperatures dropped quickly, especially at night. Mid-August saw some rain. Harvest started on September 7 with the Franc and wrapped up on the 29th with the last of Cabernet Sauvignon. The year favored the estate’s oldest vineyards, those on hillside sites. The 2018 spent 19 months in oak, two-thirds new, a bit more new oak than the norm. The blend is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Franc, a bit less Franc than is often the case, as Franc suffered more under the conditions of the season.

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the best young Sassicaias I can remember tasting, certainly on par with anything in recent memory. The preference here is picking on the earlier side relative to many neighboring properties, which is one of the reasons Sassicaia is always a wine of refinement more than opulence. At the same time, Sassicaia can be light. Not in 2021. All the elements came together during a long growing season to produce a rich, deep wine that marries textural intensity with classicism. Dark cherry/plum fruit, spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and spice all race across the palate. Time in the glass brings out the wine's textural intensity and sheer power. The 2021 is one of the most concentrated Sassicaias on record. That allowed for long macerations, as long as 20 days for some Cabernets. Aging was 25 months in French oak barrels (95% French, 5% a mix of Hungarian and Slavonian wood), 40% new, 40% once-used barrels and 20% in twice-used barrels. One of the recent developments here is some bâtonnage in aging, which is used to build texture. That approach worked well in 2021. In a word: magnificent.

The 2019 Solaia is fabulous. Deep and exquisitely layered, the 2019 is so expressive right out of the gate. Succulent dark cherry, plum, licorice, incense, pipe tobacco, chocolate and grilled herbs all take shape. Here, too, the aromatics are alluring. Cabernet Franc is bumped up a bit in the blend, and that works so well here. Solaia is often a bombastic, intense wine. The 2019 is incredibly refined and buttoned up. Readers will have to be patient. The 2019 Solaia is the sort of wine I would like to spend a whole evening with. Aging was 18 months in 100% new French oak.

There’s something intriguing, alluringly dark, earthy – animal, even – yet floral and packed full of rich black fruits and exotic spices that defines the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. This impresses with its cool-toned dark berries and minerals, complemented by bright acidity and sweet inner herbal tones. It’s not yet ready to reveal all of its charms, though it drops subtle hints each step of the way. A bitter twang keeps the expression lively and fresh, while grippy tannins saturate deeply and leave the palate aching with youthful tension, as notes of licorice, clove and a hint of ginger linger. What a wine!

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while the 2015 has gained some finesse, it is also starting to shut down in bottle. Wine is always a journey; the 2015 Sassicaia is a great example of that.

The 2016 Sassicaia is one of the most powerful, imposing young Sassicaias I can remember tasting. Explosive and vibrant with stunning depth, the 2016 possesses off-the-charts aromatic intensity, richness and structure, all in a mid-weight style that is so distinctive. Plum, lavender, rose petal, spice and mint all build into the explosive, deep finish in this potent wine.