Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese* Feinherb, 3te Terrasse
€ 35,00 INC. VAT
Martin Müllen Kröver Kirchlay Auslese
€ 29,00 INC. VAT
€ 22,00 INC. VAT
This is a stunning Moselle Spätlese! Not because it is lush, but because this masterpiece of vitality shimmers like a great diamond. Fantastic balance of juiciness and wet-stone-freshness in the dangerously expressive finish. 96 pts
12 in stock
The vineyard:
The Trabener Würzgarten is oriented to the southwest. The wines of this location are characterised by a special elegance and a fresh and typical Riesling character. Also in the Trabener Würzgarten you will find slate, which gives the wines their typical Moselle character.
| Vintage | 2020 |
|---|---|
| Begin consume | 2023 |
| End Consume | 2042 |
| Size | 750ml |
| Color | White |
| Variety | Riesling |
| Closure | Cork |
| Alcohol % vol. | 8,5 – 9,5% |
| Category | Sweet |
| Producer | Martin Müllen |
| Designation | 3651, Spätlese *** |
| Vineyard | Trabener Würzgarten |
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Mosel |
| Sub-Region | Unknown |
| Appellation | Unknown |
| Typification | Regular |
| SKU | 4504666 |
| Categories | Dessert Wine, Regular |
Overripe pear and lychee on the nose take on a syrupy impression on the polished, soft, subtly creamy and delicate palate. The finish accentuates the impressions of vanilla and liquid lily perfume that were already noted in this year’s "two-star" Hühnerberg Spätlese. And here, too, there is enough juiciness that the caressingly sustained, lush finish doesn’t become cloying. Müllen would certainly take issue with my assessment of ageworthiness, but while it’s going to take a long time for this wine’s superficial sweetness to back off, I am not convinced that the wait will pay significant dividends in complexity. Müllen is currently much enamored with the evolution of his vintage 2003 Spätlesen and Auslesen, with their softness of feel, prominent sweetness and confectionary, caramel-tinged character. Oenophiles who share his high opinion of those traits in Mosel Riesling may well feel rewarded by patient cellaring of a 2018 like this one. (Yet-riper sweet wines from the Hühnerberg – along with other nobly sweet wines from Müllen’s vintage 2018 collection – will be tasted in late 2020 and reviewed as part of a subsequent report.)
Ripe pear and lime wreathed in buddleia and lily-of-the-valley make for an alluring nose and then lusciously inform a seductively creamy, delicate palate. Smoky black tea and incisive fresh ginger lend invigoration to a finish that sensationally extends the wine’s intense pure fruit, along with a liquefaction of its floral perfume. Why no stars? Apparently Müllen thought this wine was beyond all that. He was right.
Golden yellow. Rich bouquet of baked apple, vanilla custard and clove, with a complicating note of spicy botrytis. Creamy but refined tropical fruits are complemented by refreshing salts and toasted pine nuts. At once succulent and full, finishing with reverberating length but not quite the same degree of elegance as the finest auslese.
