Kröver Paradies is actually the largest single field in Kröv, and it covers many soil types, steepnesses and exposures. Müllen only writes Kröver Paradies on the label of wines that come from the part of the field called Hähl. This is the best part of the field, which has blue shale and red shale with a large amount of lime in the soil – a light but deep soil that allows the old vines to dig very deep. Paradies Hähl has a bit of western exposure, but due to the steepness and location in relation to the Mosel River, there is a very high sun intensity – so great that in the summer you only work there early in the morning to avoid sunstroke and eye damage.
This wine is nicknamed ‘Lucy & Deare’ because the fruit comes from the two best parcels of Paradies Hähl. The three stars are the pinnacle of the Müllen family’s own subjective assessment of the wine’s quality – they very rarely give a wine three stars.
Harvested by hand. The fruit is pressed over an extremely long time (up to a day – the normal is three hours in a modern press), no yeast is added – the fermentation starts by itself, the wines are stored in large, old barrels with sediment from the fermentation and bottled after just a light clearance.
Densely packed, intense and complex. Lime, apples, mango, yellow pear, white flowers, minerality and smoke in an explosion that still stays fresh and cool. Dry with great ripeness, sparkling acidity and endless length.
For dishes with fish, shellfish, pork or poultry – can hardly get enough counterpoints.