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The 2021 Kalterersee Classico Superiore Quintessenz is wild and woodsy in the glass. Spunky wild berries, peppery herbs and florals form its bouquet. This is softly textured yet energetic, with a tension-building mix of tart red fruit and sour citrus. It finishes spicy and with an acidic concentration, leaving lavender and blackberry traces to fade. This rendition of Kaltern’s Kalterersee demands to be enjoyed alongside a meal and would perfectly contrast a plate of regional speck or salumi.

The 2021 Kalterersee Classico Superiore Puntay lifts from the glass with a floral display of black raspberries, lavender and crushed violets. This is juicy and racy in style, with brisk acidity motivating its tart wild berry fruit. The Kalterersee finishes remarkably fresh and gently tannic, with slowly fading rose and strawberry notes.

The 2021 Le Difese is redolent of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice and sweet pipe tobacco. Medium in body yet nicely layered, the 2021 is impeccably balanced. It is also a sheer delight to taste at this early stage. In many vintages, Le Difese is a fruity, forward wine, but the 2021 has a nervy feeling of classicism that is hugely appealing. It's one of my favorite recent vintages. As it has been for some time, Le Difese is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate and Sangiovese purchased from several properties in Chianti Classico, with the energy of Sangiovese very much driving the feel in this vintage.

The 2022 Le Difese is plump, juicy and expressive, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Crushed flowers, succulent red cherry fruit, mint, spice and blood orange all race across the palate. This exuberant yet mid-weight coastal Tuscan red is a total pleasure bomb. The 2022 is an especially fine edition. It benefits from a warm year - which can be a positive for entry-level wines - earlier bottling and selection. Le Difese is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (both estate and non-estate sites) and Sangiovese, all purchased.

The 2019 Nizza Riserva is packed with inky dark fruit, graphite, cured meat cloves leather and lavender. Deep and layered, with tremendous stature, the Riserva is a wonderfully complete wine that just needs a few years in bottle to come together. It is another impressive wine in this range from Olim Bauda.

The 2017 Barbera d'Asti Superiore Bionzo is laced with the essence of blackberry jam, gravel, smoke, crushed rocks and menthol. This potent, structured Barbera from Asti needs a few years to unwind, but it is impressive. Like the Gallina, the Bionzo shows a transition to a style that is a bit less overt than in the past, but without sacrificing the intensity La Spinetta fans have come to expect. I would give the tannins a few years to soften.