White Wine

The 2021 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru opens with peach compote and trails vestiges of passion fruit. The palate is sweet with Mirabelle jelly, almost creamy. This seems to have an internal combustion engine putting out peach, puffing away, letting out bursts of lemon and rose, but coming to concentrated, orange zest and peach skin finish that is just so taut and bright. The 47 g/L of residual sweetness is a fact, and the wine itself is alchemy. I have to borrow Catherine Faller’s architectural simile, noting that this wine "starts Baroque but finishes Gothic." (Medium)

The 2021 Condrieu La Doriane presents apricot, white peach, pear, quince, lemon flesh and cedar elements. Honeysuckle and spring blossom add an enticing floral lift. Medium-bodied and refreshing, the 2021 offers a less ripe profile compared to both the 2019 and 2020. Instead, it showcases freshness and energy, which should appeal to readers looking for a leaner Condrieu expression. Nonetheless, it stays true to the expressive Guigal style, ending with good drive on the nuanced finale.

The 2018 Batàr is perfumed and gracious, with lovely orchard fruit, chamomile and floral notes that lift effortlessly from the glass. A wine of total precision and nuance, the 2018 is simply exquisite today. Stylistically it is a bit more perfumed and lighter than is the norm.

The 2022 Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru blends its reductive, flinty smokiness with lemon zest on the nose. With more air, white and yellow peach start smiling through and get stronger and juicier on the palate. The pale peach juiciness appears in full purity on the palate, framed with a pleasantly astringent pithiness that makes the mouth water. More peach and fruit and fin freshness are just within reach. The finish is shorter than usual but bone-dry. This is a picture of stone. (Bone-Dry)